The alert, titled “Asos hacked”, alleged that attackers had accessed the retailer’s Snowflake data environment and threatened to disclose information. It directed recipients to a Telegram channel associated with a group calling itself Xuanye Group.

ASOS said some customer information, including names and contact details, may have been accessed. However, the company did not believe payment card details or account passwords had been compromised. Its website and app continued operating normally.

The retailer said: “We are investigating unauthorised activity involving third-party platforms that we use to communicate with customers. We took immediate action to restrict access to the notification platforms and are working with our internal and external specialist advisers, as well as all relevant authorities.”

The incident triggered a sharp decline in ASOS shares, which closed 9.56% lower after falling more than 14% during trading. The UK’s National Cyber Security Centre offered assistance as investigations continued.

Cybersecurity specialists also warned customers to remain alert to phishing attempts, including fraudulent messages requesting password resets, payment information or order verification.

The incident highlights the risks fashion retailers face when customer communication systems are compromised, potentially undermining consumer confidence even when their core shopping platforms remain accessible.

Presented at the ROICA™ booth, the selected developments showcase diverse approaches to textile engineering, performance, comfort, craftsmanship, and material expression. From breathable and three-dimensional constructions to engineered textiles, refined wool-based fabrics, and precisely crafted Japanese developments, each partner demonstrates a distinct perspective on how stretch can enhance contemporary apparel.

Together, these nine partners illustrate how ROICA™ supports diverse textile concepts through reliable stretch performance, comfort, fit, and material versatility. By bringing European expertise and Japanese craftsmanship into a single platform, ROICA™ invites visitors to discover how collaborative expertise can help shape the future of performance, active, and lifestyle textiles.

According to the report, when a garment fails, consumers are 12 times more likely to walk away from the brand entirely than to replace the item with the same brand. Despite this, only 5.9 per cent of customers actually return the faulty item, which means the brand rarely receives direct feedback about the failure.

The report draws on insights gathered from over 5,000 globally surveyed, circular-conscious consumers — predominantly from Gen Z — on their expectations around material quality, transparency and circularity in fashion.

The True Cost of Garment Failure: Invisible Churn

What the data makes clear is that garment failure doesn’t just damage a sale — it silently erodes a brand’s customer base. When a garment disappoints, more than 1 in 4 consumers (27.7 per cent) leave the brand altogether. Of these, 15.8 per cent say they will never buy from that brand again, while 11.9 per cent actively switch to a competitor.

Rather than engaging with the brand over the issue, the majority of consumers quietly absorb the loss: over 64 per cent either repair the item themselves or continue wearing it despite the defect. Only 2.3 per cent choose to replace it with the same brand — a figure that underscores just how deeply brand abandonment outpaces brand loyalty in the face of quality failures.

What Frustrates Consumers Most

When it comes to the specific types of quality failures that bother consumers most, the issues are almost entirely material in nature. Fabric thinning or developing holes ranked at the top of the frustration list, cited by 62 per cent of respondents. Seams splitting or unravelling followed at 55 per cent, with fabric pilling close behind at 50 per cent.

These figures point directly to garment durability as the central concern — not aesthetic faults or sizing issues, but the structural and material integrity of what consumers are buying.

Transparency and Proof Matter More Than Certification

Over 80 per cent of respondents stated that knowing what their clothing is made from is important to them. However, when asked what would most increase their confidence that a garment is genuinely better made, independent certification came in last among five options, chosen by just 6.6 per cent of respondents.

Instead, material information and evidence of how a garment holds up over time together accounted for 63 per cent of first-place votes — indicating that consumers value real, demonstrable proof of quality far more than labels or accreditations.

Durability at the Heart of Circular Fashion

Samsara Eco’s General Manager, Dr Lars Kissau, addressed the link between garment durability and circular fashion directly.

“Circularity means keeping materials in circulation at their highest possible value — not their lowest available use,” Dr Kissau said. “That’s why durability matters so much. A garment has to last to be worn again, resold, handed on. And when it genuinely can’t be worn any longer, it should become clothing again, not something lesser. Downcycling only slows the linear model. It doesn’t stop it.”

Dr Kissau also noted that garment durability has moved beyond being purely a quality question. “It’s now a retention question, and in Europe it’s becoming a compliance one — both showing up on the bottom line. Durable products can be made from recycled materials — there’s no trade-off in quality or performance. That’s what unlocks a truly circular textiles industry.”

Cost of Living Is Shifting Buying Behaviour — But Not Standards

The report also found that broader economic pressures are reshaping how consumers shop for clothing, even as their expectations around quality remain high. Over 88 per cent of respondents said the cost of living has influenced how they purchase clothes.

Of those, 1 in 3 said cost-of-living pressure has led them to buy less and expect more from each item they do purchase. Meanwhile, 43 per cent reported turning to second-hand shopping, and 13.9 per cent said they are now choosing cheaper options.

The data suggests that while economic pressures are reducing spending frequency, consumer expectations around what a garment should deliver — in terms of garment durability and performance — have not softened.

Brands Are Being Held Accountable

On the question of responsibility for quality, consumers are pointing firmly at brands. Over half of all respondents — 54 per cent — say quality is the brand’s responsibility, nearly double the 27 per cent who attributed it to government regulation. Just under 9 per cent placed responsibility on consumers themselves to buy less and better.

The vast majority of respondents — 89 per cent — also said they expect a garment to last at least 30 wears before it is considered worn out, reinforcing the role that consumer expectations now play in shaping what brands must deliver when it comes to garment durability and overall product standards.

As garment failure continues to fuel silent brand abandonment across the fashion industry, the message from consumers is consistent: quality, transparency, and longevity are no longer optional considerations — they are baseline expectations.

Global Rankings: Where Uzbekistan Stands

China led the global cotton fiber production rankings with 7.79 million tons, followed by India at 5.18 million tons and Brazil at 4.08 million tons. The United States ranked fourth with 3.03 million tons. Uzbekistan placed fifth with an estimated 1.4 million tons, ahead of Pakistan, which recorded 1.15 million tons.

Uzbekistan’s estimated cotton fiber output exceeded Pakistan’s reported volume by approximately 245,000 tons, representing a margin of around 21.3%. However, Uzbekistan’s output remained approximately 54% below the figure recorded by the United States.

It is worth noting that Uzbekistan’s figures cover the 2025 calendar year, while the international figures referenced relate to the 2025/26 cotton season. This difference in reporting periods should be taken into consideration when drawing direct comparisons.

Harvest Figures and Yield Data

According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Uzbekistan harvested 3.986 million tons of raw cotton in 2025 from a cultivated area of 875,600 hectares. Applying a fiber yield rate of 35% to this harvest results in an estimated 1.395 million tons of cotton fiber, which the ministry rounded to 1.4 million tons.

Based on these figures, Uzbekistan’s average raw cotton yield reached approximately 4.55 tons per hectare in 2025, with the estimated cotton fiber yield standing at around 1.59 tons per hectare.

Drivers Behind Production Growth

The Ministry of Agriculture attributed Uzbekistan’s progress in cotton fiber production to the adoption of high-yielding crop varieties, the integration of modern agricultural technologies, improvements in general farming practices, and the sustained efforts of farmers to boost overall productivity.

Focus Beyond Raw Output

Uzbekistan’s agricultural priorities extend beyond simply increasing raw cotton volumes. The ministry outlined several key objectives, including raising yields per hectare, enhancing fiber quality, improving processing efficiency, and strengthening the value chain from cotton cultivation through to finished products.

Expanding Value-Added Processing

Expanding value-added processing holds particular importance within this strategy, as cotton fiber serves as the foundational raw material for yarn, fabrics, garments, and a wide range of other textile products. Developing these downstream production stages has the potential to increase the domestic value generated from each ton of harvested cotton, supporting the growth of Uzbekistan’s cotton textile industry.

The ministry’s comparison positions Uzbekistan among the leading cotton fiber producers in the global ranking while also reflecting the country’s stated focus on improving agricultural productivity and advancing a more integrated cotton and textile industry.

Khurram Mukhtar, Patron-in-Chief of the Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA), said the industry was facing mounting pressures that threatened its competitiveness and international market share. Inflation in Western economies has weakened buyer demand, while sea freight rates have climbed to between 1.5 and 2.5 times their previous levels, further squeezing exporters’ margins.

“The decline in export trade volume is unprecedented,” Mr Mukhtar said, warning that financially stronger businesses would be better positioned to withstand the downturn, while recovering lost markets could prove difficult.

The pressure extends across Pakistan’s textile value chain, from cotton ginning and spinning to weaving, processing and knitting. High domestic inflation has also weakened local demand, adding to financial strains across the industry.

PTEA calls for immediate policy intervention

To protect Pakistan textile exports, Mukhtar proposed temporary support through the Duty Drawback of Local Taxes and Levies scheme, with rebates of 6%–8%. He also called for the prompt payment of outstanding government refunds and the removal of cross-subsidies embedded in industrial energy tariffs to lower operating costs.

He raised concerns over the implementation of the Export Finance Scheme (EFS). Although the FY27 Finance Bill announced a fixed financing rate of 4.5%, exporters were reportedly paying at least 5.5%, with some facing rates as high as 8.5%.

Mukhtar also questioned the allocation of approximately Rs200 billion in EFS financing to yarn exporters, despite yarn being included on the scheme’s negative list. He similarly challenged financing for sugar exporters, citing the sector’s highly regulated status.

Meanwhile, textile exporters that substantially exceed the State Bank of Pakistan’s prescribed export-performance threshold are reportedly struggling to secure adequate financing. Some businesses achieve five to six times the required performance against a minimum threshold of twice the prescribed level, he said.

Mukhtar argued that the allocation system risks disadvantaging value-added manufacturers and businesses that generate significant foreign exchange earnings.

Financing and modernisation proposals

While welcoming additional EFS funding for small and medium enterprises (SMEs), Mukhtar questioned whether the proposed increase could be fully utilised. He said the additional Rs300 billion allocation would require Rs600 billion in export performance, while the previous year’s Rs100 billion SME allocation had reportedly remained unused.

He urged the government to distribute financing more closely in line with each segment’s contribution to exports, noting that the country’s top 100 exporters account for as much as 60% of total export volume.

To improve productivity and strengthen the supply chain, PTEA proposed a dedicated Rs140 billion modernisation package. The plan includes Rs20 billion each for ginning and sizing, alongside Rs50 billion each for weaving and processing.

The proposed facilities would support machinery replacement, technological upgrades, automation and more sustainable production. Mukhtar called on the federal government and the State Bank to develop the programme jointly in consultation with industry representatives.

He also advocated a 10-year strategy for Pakistan textile exports, built around existing industrial capabilities, exportable surplus and structural reforms to improve international competitiveness.

“Historically, we have been reactive. The current situation demands a proactive approach,” he said, adding that timely support would cost considerably less than rebuilding export markets after they had been lost.

Polyester now accounts for more than half of global fiber production. That is a staggering figure when you consider that cotton was once the undisputed king of textiles. The shift did not happen by accident. It happened because polyester is cheap, durable, and versatile — qualities that clothing brands have found nearly impossible to walk away from.

How Synthetic Fabric Became the Industry Standard

The rise of synthetic fabric in mainstream fashion tracks closely with the explosion of fast fashion over the past three decades. As brands raced to lower costs and accelerate production cycles, polyester offered something cotton simply could not: a material that was inexpensive to produce, easy to work with, quick to dry, and resistant to wrinkles and shrinkage.

Polyester in fashion gained further ground because it blends well with other fibers. A cotton-polyester blend, for instance, gives manufacturers the softness of cotton with the structural resilience of synthetic fabric. For clothing brands trying to hit a price point while maintaining a presentable product, that blend became a reliable formula.

The economics are hard to argue with. Polyester is derived from petroleum, and its production costs have historically been lower than those of natural fibers like cotton. Growing cotton is land-intensive, water-intensive, and subject to the unpredictability of weather and crop yields. Polyester, by contrast, is manufactured at scale with relatively predictable inputs.

The Consumer Relationship With Polyester

Consumers have had a complicated relationship with polyester. In its early commercial forms, polyester fabric was associated with the stiff, shiny suits of the 1970s — garments that did not breathe well and felt artificial against the skin. That reputation lingered for years, keeping polyester in fashion’s cheaper tiers while natural fibers commanded premiums.

But textile technology advanced. Modern polyester bears little resemblance to its earlier versions. Microfiber polyester can mimic the drape of silk. Performance polyester wicks moisture and regulates temperature. Recycled polyester, made from plastic bottles, has given the synthetic fabric a sustainability story that clothing brands have been eager to promote.

Despite these advances, polyester still struggles with one fundamental drawback: it sheds microplastics when washed. Tiny synthetic fibers are released into wastewater with every laundry cycle, eventually making their way into waterways and oceans. This has become a significant environmental concern, and it is one that clothing brands using polyester have increasingly had to address in their public communications.

Why Clothing Brands Can’t Simply Switch to Cotton

The obvious question is why clothing brands don’t simply return to cotton if consumers and environmentalists are uneasy about synthetic fabric. The answer lies in the economics and logistics of global supply chains.

Cotton clothing costs more to produce. Cotton prices are volatile, affected by droughts, floods, trade policies, and shifts in global demand. For clothing brands operating on thin margins in a highly competitive market, committing to cotton at scale is a financial risk that many are unwilling to take. Polyester, with its more stable pricing and abundant supply, remains the safer commercial bet.

There is also the matter of performance. For categories like sportswear and outdoor apparel, synthetic fabric genuinely outperforms cotton in terms of moisture management, durability, and weight. Cotton clothing, while comfortable, does not meet the technical demands of high-performance garments in the way that polyester does. Clothing brands serving athletic or outdoor markets have strong functional reasons to stay with synthetic fibers, not just economic ones.

The Recycled Polyester Question

One of the most widely discussed alternatives within the synthetic fabric space is recycled polyester, often referred to as rPET. Clothing brands including major global retailers have made public commitments to increase their use of recycled polyester in place of virgin polyester derived directly from petroleum.

The appeal is understandable. Recycled polyester in fashion allows brands to reduce their dependence on new fossil fuel-derived inputs while still using the synthetic fabric they are operationally accustomed to. It also feeds into the broader circular economy narrative that has gained traction in sustainability discussions across industries.

However, recycled polyester is not without complications. It still sheds microplastics in the wash, just as virgin polyester does. The recycling infrastructure for mixed-fiber garments remains limited, meaning that polyester blended with cotton or other fibers is often not practically recyclable at end of life. And the supply of recyclable plastic feedstock, while large, is not unlimited.

Clothing brands that have leaned heavily on recycled polyester as their primary sustainability credential have faced scrutiny over whether the practice genuinely reduces environmental harm or simply reframes it.

Cotton’s Complicated Comeback

For all the dominance of polyester in fashion, cotton has not disappeared. It remains the second most widely used fiber in the world, and demand for certified organic cotton and sustainably sourced cotton has grown as consumers have become more conscious of what their clothes are made from.

Some clothing brands have made cotton clothing a deliberate point of differentiation, positioning natural fibers as a premium, more ethical alternative to synthetic fabric. The market for such products exists, and it is growing, but it remains a fraction of the overall apparel market.

The challenge for cotton is systemic. Conventional cotton farming has its own significant environmental footprint, requiring substantial pesticide use and water consumption. Organic cotton addresses some of those concerns but is more expensive to grow and commands a smaller share of global cotton production. Scaling organic or sustainably grown cotton to meet the volume needs of mass-market clothing brands is a long-term challenge without a straightforward near-term solution.

A Market Stuck Between Economics and Expectations

The fashion industry finds itself caught between two pressures that do not easily resolve. On one side, the economics of global apparel production continue to favor polyester. On the other, growing consumer awareness around microplastics, environmental sustainability, and material transparency is generating demand for alternatives, including cotton clothing and other natural or bio-based fibers.

Clothing brands are responding by diversifying their material mixes, investing in material innovation, and making incremental shifts in their sourcing practices. But a wholesale departure from synthetic fabric — from polyester in fashion — is not on the immediate horizon for the industry at large. The structural dependencies are too deep, and the alternatives too limited at the scale that global fashion requires.

What is clear is that the conversation around polyester, synthetic fabric, and the future of clothing materials is no longer confined to specialist sustainability circles. It has moved into mainstream fashion discourse, driven by consumer questions, regulatory attention, and media coverage that has made the material composition of clothing a topic of genuine public interest.

The fabric question, in other words, is no longer a background issue. For clothing brands, consumers, and the industry as a whole, what goes into a garment matters more now than it has in a very long time.

For the fiscal year ending in August, Fast Retailing’s sales climbed nearly 17 percent to just under 4 trillion yen — approximately $25.3 billion — while net profit surged 25 percent to a record 542.5 billion yen. H&M, which currently holds the second position in the global apparel industry behind Inditex’s Zara, reported weaker sales for its own fiscal year ending in November, raising the real possibility that Fast Retailing could leapfrog the Swedish retailer. Exchange-rate fluctuations, however, may still influence the final industry rankings.

“Fast Retailing is finally going to overtake H&M,” said Takahiro Kazahaya, a senior analyst at UBS Securities Japan.

Uniqlo’s Overseas Business Powers the Growth

The primary engine behind these Fast Retailing record sales was Uniqlo’s international operations. Overseas sales rose 26 percent, while overseas profit climbed 44 percent during the same period.

“We’re seeing a global boom,” said Tadashi Yanai, Chairman and CEO of Fast Retailing, at an October 8 press conference.

This past year, Uniqlo opened flagship stores in Seoul and Chicago as part of its ongoing strategy to strengthen its presence in key global cities and boost online sales. The brand’s appeal in Western markets has been supported by a notable shift in consumer behaviour.

“In Europe and the U.S., consumers who previously bought more expensive clothing are increasingly looking for reasonably priced alternatives,” said Kuni Kanamori, a senior analyst at SMBC Nikko Securities. “Uniqlo’s simple products, commitment to quality, and balance between value and price are meeting that demand.”

The Gap With Inditex and the Road Ahead

Even as Fast Retailing narrows its distance from H&M, the global apparel industry’s undisputed leader, Inditex — the Spanish owner of Zara — remains well ahead. Inditex posted sales of approximately 7.1 trillion yen in its fiscal year ending in January, compared with Fast Retailing’s 3.96 trillion yen for the year ending in August.

Yanai has publicly stated his long-term ambition of reaching the top position in global apparel for many years. “We’ve reached the point where our long-held goal of 10 trillion yen is coming into view,” he said.

Kazahaya sees the competitive landscape evolving into a two-player race at the very top. “We are entering an era led by two giants: Inditex, which quickly captures trends and sells high-quality, affordable clothing, and Fast Retailing, which specialises in highly functional apparel with basic designs,” he said.

Room to Grow in Key Markets

Fast Retailing maintains that there remains considerable room for international expansion. While Uniqlo commands roughly 12 percent of the apparel market in Japan, its share in Europe and North America stands at only around 0.5 percent — a figure the company sees as a significant opportunity rather than a limitation.

Questions Around the GU Brand

As Fast Retailing sets its sights on closing the gap with Inditex, some analysts have pointed to GU, the group’s lower-priced label, as a potential challenge to navigate.

Although GU posted higher sales and profit for the fiscal year ending in August, its operating profit slipped into negative territory during the June-to-August quarter. Takahiro Saito, president of consulting firm Demand Works and author of “Uniqlo vs Zara,” noted that GU’s global identity remains less defined compared with Uniqlo’s well-established brand recognition.

“With its previous lineup, it was difficult to differentiate its products from local competitors overseas in terms of design and price,” Saito said.

GU underwent a major brand overhaul this year, but Saito expressed concern that its higher-priced items are becoming increasingly prominent. “If that ends up hurting domestic sales, that will defeat the purpose,” he said.

Fast Retailing Forecasts Another Record Year

Despite the complexities around GU, Fast Retailing is projecting continued record-breaking performance. The company forecasts sales of 4.45 trillion yen and net profit of 560 billion yen for the fiscal year ending August 2027.

“From here, sales will grow by about 500 billion yen every year,” Yanai said. “A company with 500 billion yen in sales would be a giant in the apparel industry, and we’re talking about creating one of those every year through growth. The world has that kind of potential, and I believe our products will be accepted globally.”

With Fast Retailing record sales continuing to climb and Uniqlo accelerating its international footprint, the group is clearly positioning itself for a sustained rise in the global apparel rankings — with the No. 2 spot now within reach and an eye firmly set on the top.

Three Fibers, One Collection

At the heart of the REMOD Collection are Lenzing’s three signature fiber offerings developed specifically for denim applications: TENCEL™ Lyocell Standard, TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100, and TENCEL™ Lyocell dtex 2.2. Each fiber brings a distinctly different hand feel, texture, and visual character to the table, offering a broad creative palette within a single fiber family.

TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 draws its character from Variocut technology, which introduces deliberate variations in fiber length. The result is a subtle irregularity in surface texture and a matte, more opaque appearance that closely echoes the look and feel of cotton — making it a natural fit for premium denim applications where authentic cotton aesthetics are valued. This fiber plays a prominent role across multiple pieces in the REMOD Collection.

TENCEL™ Lyocell dtex 2.2, featuring a 51mm fiber length, is coarser than standard TENCEL™ Lyocell. It delivers a drier, stiffer touch and a natural slub pattern that is reminiscent of linen — lending body and structure to fabrics without adding unnecessary weight. This characteristic makes it particularly suited to garments that must hold their shape through repeated wear and washing cycles.

TENCEL™ Lyocell Standard, meanwhile, contributes softness, fluid drape, and color depth. Explored across diverse blending options within the collection, it rounds out the portfolio by adding a refined, comfortable quality to the fabrics it is incorporated into.

A Collection Built for Exploration

The REMOD Collection spans a carefully considered range of denim garments, including heavyweight men’s jackets, mid-weight wide-leg jeans, stretch jeans, and cotton-free casual shirting. The range covers constructions both with and without cotton, unlocking a wide array of fiber-blending possibilities. Together, the pieces pair the authentic look of cotton denim and the craftsmanship associated with Japanese denim-making with an elevated hand feel and enhanced comfort.

Dennis Hui, Global Business Development Manager for Denim at Lenzing, spoke about the partnership: “TENCEL™ fibers have been part of Kaihara’s collections since the 1990s and every chapter has asked something different about the material. What makes this latest REMOD Collection especially exciting is how each fiber is celebrated in various applications as a discovery of what is possible with each TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber type. From our cotton-inspired TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 showcased across a variety of pieces within the collection, alongside TENCEL™ Lyocell Standard used in others. Meanwhile, our linen-inspired TENCEL™ Lyocell dtex 2.2 features in its own distinct articles. Each brings authentic denim character with elevated comfort and hand feel.”

Akihiro Maehara, Director of the Market Planning Division at Kaihara Corporation, also commented on the collaboration: “Texture is one of the most defining elements of premium denim, shaping both its character and visual appeal. For this collection, we harnessed the unique attributes of each TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber type to add value to the denim in distinct ways, creating fabrics that balance authentic denim aesthetics with softness, drape and comfort. We are proud to bring our longstanding manufacturing expertise together with the new material possibilities offered by Lenzing to explore new expressions of texture and visual depth.”

TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 Mill Network Reaches Third Cohort

Alongside the debut of the REMOD Collection, Lenzing announced the third cohort of its TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 mill partner network at Kingpins Amsterdam 2026. The fiber, which first launched at Kingpins Amsterdam in October 2025 with 17 mills across five countries, has grown steadily since then. By April 2026, the network had expanded to 37 mills across nine countries. With the addition of the third cohort, the network now stands at nearly 50 mills spanning 13 countries — and for the first time, Indian mills have joined the partnership.

This expansion into India brings a significant sourcing hub with deep denim heritage into the TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 ecosystem, adding both manufacturing expertise and fresh creative perspectives to the network.

One aspect that mills continue to highlight about TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 is its compatibility with existing operations. The fiber works with machinery, process steps, and chemicals already in use, meaning partners can broaden their fiber options without the need for additional capital investment. Each new mill that joins the network brings a different interpretation of the fiber, contributing to the ongoing expansion of what the TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 offering can deliver.

Predictability as a Competitive Advantage

Tuncay Kılıçkan, Head of Global Business Development for Denim at Lenzing, spoke about what drives brands toward TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100: “Brands want more choices in how they create denim, but they also want confidence in the materials and partners they work with. Planning a denim programme means committing months ahead, so a material that behaves predictably — in supply, in processing, in how it wears — is worth a great deal. TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 gives brands that, while preserving the authenticity, timelessness and comfort that make denim a wardrobe staple. A year on, close to 50 mills have already brought the fiber into their products, which means a brand can explore a broader material palette for future collections and know where to source it.”

Kingpins Amsterdam 2026: Where to Find Lenzing

The REMOD Collection will be on display at Lenzing’s Booth 19 in the yellow zone at Kingpins Amsterdam, running October 14–15, 2026. Alongside the REMOD Collection showcasing TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers in denim innovation, Lenzing will also present a broader selection of its latest fiber products and offerings at the event.

For mills, brands, and designers exploring sustainable denim options and the expanding world of specialty Lenzing fibers, Kingpins Amsterdam 2026 presents a direct opportunity to engage with the full TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber portfolio and the creative possibilities it enables.

New Regulatory Pressures Are Forcing the Industry’s Hand

The timing of the announcement is tied closely to shifting regulatory conditions in Europe. The European Union’s rules restricting the destruction of unsold apparel came into effect for large companies this year, and its revised Waste Framework Directive now requires member states to establish extended producer-responsibility systems for textiles. These policies do not automatically build a functioning recycling industry, but they raise the financial stakes for brands considerably: what happens to products that cannot be sold, reused, or repaired?

That question is becoming harder for fashion companies to sidestep, and it is increasingly directing investment and partnership decisions toward textile recycling solutions that can operate at commercial scale.

Circ and Huafon: A Partnership Built for Industrial Scale

Circ, which began operations in the United States and has started the permitting process for a facility in France, has now announced a multi-phase textile-to-textile recycling project in China in partnership with Huafon. The first phase of the China facility is designed to process approximately 200 metric tons of textile waste per day.

Circ’s technology targets cotton-polyester blended fabrics — one of the most commonly used material combinations in the apparel industry and one of the most difficult to recycle. Polyester and cotton are blended widely because the combination offers durability, affordability, and versatility. However, most existing recycling systems work best with single-material or polyester-heavy inputs. Cotton-polyester garments typically end up downcycled, incinerated, sent to landfill, or routed into an opaque global secondhand market.

Circ’s process is designed to separate the two materials from blended garments and convert them into inputs for new polyester and new cellulose-based fibers such as lyocell. That output has clear industrial relevance, since polyester monomers can enter established polymerization lines and cellulosic pulp can feed viscose and lyocell production — integrating into manufacturing systems that already exist rather than requiring an entirely new industrial ecosystem to be built around them.

Why China Is Central to This Initiative

China is among the world’s largest centers for textile and apparel manufacturing. Peter Majeranowski, co-founder and chief executive of Circ, has stated that China’s position in global textile production makes it a critical location for scaling textile-to-textile recycling. Keeping fiber-to-fiber recycling confined to small demonstration facilities makes it structurally difficult to reshape the supply chains responsible for producing the majority of the world’s garments.

The choice of China for this scale-up is therefore not incidental. It is directly tied to where the feedstock is generated, where the manufacturing infrastructure already exists, and where the recycled outputs can most efficiently re-enter production.

What Huafon Brings Beyond a Manufacturing Site

What distinguishes this partnership from typical recycling announcements is the depth of what Huafon contributes. The company is investing directly in the project and brings existing chemical production facilities, engineering and procurement systems, logistics networks, operating teams, and established relationships across China’s textile industry — resources that early-stage recycling ventures typically lack.

Huafon also owns Covation Biomaterials, formerly DuPont’s biomaterials business, which provided the group with experience commercializing bio-based materials including Sorona, a partly corn-based performance fiber used in carpeting and apparel. That commercial experience was a material factor in Circ’s decision to work with them.

Feifeng You, vice president of Huafon Group and chairman of Huafon Microfibre Shanghai Tech Co. Ltd., noted that Circ had already moved beyond laboratory scale, had materials in the market, and had accumulated meaningful operational and engineering data. You said the company had seen little comparable technology focused on cotton-polyester blends, even as polyester-to-polyester recycling continues to expand in China.

“By combining Circ’s innovation with our industrial strength and investment, we can turn textile waste into high-quality materials at a scale the industry needs,” You stated.

The Economics: Not Yet Settled, But a Five-Year Horizon

The partnership does not resolve the economic gap between recycled and virgin materials overnight. Low-cost virgin polyester remains tied to fossil fuel markets, and fashion procurement teams remain acutely price sensitive. Majeranowski has been direct on this point: Circ still needs scale to approach price parity with virgin materials and predicts it can reach that parity within five years of the first plant becoming operational.

You acknowledged that customers may accept a price premium during early commercialization but emphasized that long-term, widespread adoption will require recycled fibers to compete with virgin alternatives on both performance and cost. Plant utilization rates, energy costs, capital expenditure, feedstock quality, and operating efficiency will all determine whether that threshold is reached.

The broader industry dynamic that has held back textile recycling for years is well recognized. Investors want evidence that brands will commit to purchasing recycled materials before financing new facilities. Brands want reliable supply and competitive pricing before they commit to procurement. And recyclers cannot bring down costs without the production volumes those brand commitments would generate.

Circ’s Approach: Embedding Technology in Existing Infrastructure

Circ’s strategic response to that stalemate is to place its recycling technology inside an industrial partner already embedded in the market it wants to serve. Rather than building every operational capability from the ground up, the company can use Huafon’s existing chemical and materials footprint as the foundation for deployment.

Majeranowski described the current moment in textile recycling as a transition from the proving phase to the deployment phase. “Now, six, seven years later, they’re ready to deploy,” he said of the broader field. “What’s difficult is the industry is so non-concentrated. Even your biggest brand is responsible for less than 1% of what’s produced every year in textiles. So no one really wants to take the first step.”

He has also described the company’s evolving role in broader terms: “We’re not a technology company anymore. We’re a coordination company.”

Feedstock Remains a Critical Unsolved Challenge

Even with industrial infrastructure in place, the Circ-Huafon project faces an ongoing challenge that is not unique to this partnership: a reliable, organized supply of post-consumer textile waste. The apparel industry remains poorly structured around collecting, sorting, and routing discarded clothing into textile recycling systems. Mills, distributors, waste handlers, retailers, and consumers each control different segments of the chain, and most fashion brands are not currently equipped to aggregate their own waste at meaningful scale.

The new facility will require consistent inbound streams of cotton-polyester blended textiles to operate at the capacity its first phase is designed to achieve. How the partnership addresses feedstock procurement will be as consequential as the recycling process itself.

Industry Voices on the Broader Significance

Nicole Rycroft, founder and executive director of Canopy, noted that the Circ-Huafon collaboration arrives as both fashion brands and man-made cellulosic fiber producers are actively seeking materials that reduce their exposure to forest-derived inputs, fossil-based production, and volatile supply chains. “Partnerships between global suppliers and leading innovators is exactly the direction fashion brands need their supply chains to go,” she said.

Canopy’s modeling has found that reaching just 5% use of next-generation inputs in viscose production could unlock substantial savings for brands over the coming decade and set the sector toward far greater adoption by 2036. Whether those projections materialize will depend on whether projects such as this one deliver actual material to the market, not only promising samples.

A Real-World Test for Fashion’s Circular Ambitions

The central question this project poses is no longer whether cotton-polyester blends can be technically separated and reprocessed. Circ has already demonstrated that capability. The question now is whether a recycler, a chemical manufacturer, brands, and suppliers can coordinate quickly and effectively enough to build a functioning commercial market around the recycled output.

For an industry that has spent years announcing circular collections without building much circular infrastructure, the partnership between Circ and Huafon — and its China-based textile recycling facility — represents a direct test of whether industrial-scale circularity can move from concept to operation.

The plan, which brings together stakeholders from across the Danish fashion and textile ecosystem, is designed to address the mounting pressures that the sector faces — from evolving European Union regulations to growing consumer demand for responsible production practices. The Denmark textile transition plan outlines a structured roadmap intended to help businesses adapt, innovate, and remain competitive in an increasingly sustainability-driven global market.

A Collaborative Framework for Change

The action plan has been developed in close coordination between the Danish government and industry representatives, signalling a joint effort rather than a top-down regulatory push. The initiative is built on the understanding that the textile sector’s shift toward sustainability cannot happen in isolation and requires active collaboration between public institutions, brands, manufacturers, and other stakeholders.

Central to the plan is the goal of strengthening the circular textile economy in Denmark. This includes efforts to improve textile collection, sorting, and recycling infrastructure — areas that have been identified as critical bottlenecks in achieving meaningful circularity across the industry. Denmark’s textile sector support framework is expected to channel resources and guidance into these areas over the course of three years.

Addressing EU Regulatory Pressures

A driving force behind the plan is the wave of new European Union legislation affecting the textile and fashion industry. Regulations related to extended producer responsibility, eco-design requirements, and mandatory sustainability disclosures are reshaping the landscape for Danish fashion businesses. The three-year plan is positioned to help companies understand and comply with these incoming rules while remaining operationally agile.

The Danish fashion industry, which includes a number of internationally recognised brands and a robust domestic design culture, faces the dual challenge of maintaining creative and commercial momentum while pivoting toward more responsible business models. The action plan is intended to provide the tools, knowledge, and support structures needed to manage this transition effectively.

Focus on Sustainability and Circularity

Sustainability is at the heart of the Denmark textile transition plan. The agenda emphasises reducing the environmental footprint of textile production and consumption, promoting longer product lifespans, and encouraging the development of new business models such as rental, repair, and resale. These priorities are aligned with broader European and global sustainability goals that are increasingly shaping trade, regulation, and consumer behaviour.

The plan also focuses on upskilling and knowledge sharing within the sector, ensuring that businesses of all sizes — from large retailers to small independent labels — have access to guidance and expertise. Supporting sustainable fashion in Denmark is framed not just as an environmental obligation but as an economic opportunity, with the potential to position Danish companies as leaders in the global shift toward responsible fashion.

Industry Response and Next Steps

The announcement has been received as a constructive step by those within the Danish textile and fashion community. The collaborative nature of the plan, developed with meaningful input from the industry, is seen as a strength that could improve its effectiveness in delivering real change on the ground.

Over the three-year period, the plan will be monitored and evaluated, with scope for adjustments based on industry feedback and evolving regulatory requirements. The Danish government’s investment in the textile sector’s future through this structured support plan underscores its recognition of the industry’s economic and cultural value, as well as the urgency of aligning it with sustainability imperatives.

The circular textile economy goals embedded in the plan are expected to require sustained effort and investment, but the roadmap provides a clear starting point for a sector navigating one of its most complex periods of transformation.