The Milan Public Prosecutor’s Office has reportedly sought to place the Italian shoemaker Tod’s under judicial administration due to allegations of worker exploitation in its factories located in China.
With this action, Tod’s becomes the sixth luxury brand from Italy to come under such scrutiny since the beginning of 2024.
According to Reuters, Italian legal authorities have submitted a request for judicial administration concerning Tod’s in light of claims regarding labor exploitation within its supply chain. This request arose following a ruling by Italy’s Supreme Court.
A hearing to address a jurisdictional conflict between the Milan prosecutors and an appeals court in the Marche region—where Tod’s is headquartered—has been scheduled for November 19, 2025.
Tod’s confirmed to Reuters that it had been informed about the forthcoming hearing but did not provide further specifics.
“We can only reiterate that Tod’s complies with current legislation, including labor law, and that constant checks are carried out on the workshops we select and use,” the company stated.
Additionally, Tod’s emphasized that workshops must enter into agreements prior to beginning work, ensuring that employees’ work environments are safe and that labor contracts are respected.
However, prosecutors allege that Tod’s has “culpably failed” to adequately supervise its suppliers, prioritizing higher profits over ethical labor practices. This situation highlights ongoing concerns regarding labor practices in luxury brands, which have come under increasing scrutiny in recent times.
Importantly, the company itself is not currently under criminal investigation; the focus is primarily on the conditions within its supply chain.
The Milan appeals court found merit in the prosecutors’ request for administration but concluded that the relevant jurisdiction lies with the Marche region. The Supreme Court will now clarify which authority has the jurisdiction to proceed with the case.
Recent inquiries by Italian magistrates have revealed extensive exploitation practices within fashion and luxury supply chains.
In response to the situation concerning Tod’s, Industry Minister Adolfo Urso indicated that the government has proposed legislation aimed at instituting legal certification for fashion brands. This would enable companies to secure advance third-party certification regarding their supply chains’ compliance with legal standards.
“With this measure, it will be possible to secure Italy’s fashion supply chain, a source of pride for ‘Made in Italy,’ and protect its reputation worldwide,” Urso remarked.
Notably, previous judicial administrations have been enacted for high-end brands such as Loro Piana and units associated with Valentino, Dior, Armani, and Alviero Martini. In cases involving Armani, Dior, and Alviero Martini, earlier measures were rescinded once the companies adjusted their practices to meet legal standards.
In 2024, private equity firm L Catterton, backed by LVMH, took Tod’s private in a deal with the Della Valle family, the primary shareholders of the group. This ongoing scrutiny into labor practices in luxury brands continues to push for accountability and reform in the sector.
