Balenciaga, with the support of Kering’s Material Innovation Lab, continues to push the boundaries of fashion technology with the introduction of two groundbreaking material innovations in its Spring 26 Collection: 3D weaving and bioengineered silk. With these new developments, the House continues to forge pathways in the realm of material innovation, prioritizing solutions that help reduce its environmental impact, as well as craftsmanship that meets its own Couture standards.
At the heart of the Spring 26 collection is Balenciaga’s debut use of 3D weaving, a software-driven textile process developed in collaboration with Weffan, a startup founded in 2020 by award-winning textile designer Graysha Audren. The technology is showcased through a classic single-breasted, three-pocket tailored jacket paired with pleated trousers featuring a zip fly and three pockets.
Unlike conventional tailoring, 3D weaving embeds a garment’s construction directly into the fabric during the weaving stage. Produced on upgraded jacquard looms, the textile integrates pattern and structure before cutting begins, effectively merging design and manufacturing through a reverse-engineered process. Once woven, the fabric is released from its two-dimensional state via precise incisions and unfolded off-loom into a three-dimensional, origami-like form, before being finished with traditional tailoring techniques.
The result is a reimagined approach to suiting, marked by distinctive 3D-woven seams, integrated pockets, and sleeves. Beyond aesthetics, the process significantly reduces offcut waste and manufacturing time, while addressing inefficiencies and unnecessary material use at the earliest creative stages. Balenciaga positions the Weffan collaboration as future-proof alternative for tailoring within the fashion industry.
Alongside this technical milestone, Balenciaga also makes industry history as the first fashion house to implement an advanced bioengineered silk alternative developed with Munich-based startup AMSilk. Introduced through a fluid wrap shirt and shirtdress within the Spring 26 ready-to-wear collection, the fossil fuel-free material mirrors the look and feel of traditional silk while offering enhanced elasticity and wrinkle resistance.
Derived from renewable sources, AMSilk represents a major step forward in reducing environmental impact: its production uses approximately 97% less water and emits 81% less carbon dioxide than conventional silk manufacturing. The material is certified Product Class I and microplastic-free by the Hohenstein Textile Testing Institute, bacteriostatic by Microbial Testing Competence, and approved as vegan and cruelty-free by the Vegan Society.
The innovation behind AMSilk lies in DNA editing and protein engineering. Inspired by the exceptional strength and fineness of spider silk, scientists used a spider’s genome as a blueprint to engineer microorganisms in a bioreactor. These microorganisms produce lab-grown proteins that are transformed into polymers, spun into ultrafine yarns, and woven into a silk-like textile that can be tailored like any natural fiber.
Both the Balenciaga Weffan jacket and trousers, as well as the AMSilk shirt and shirtdress, are available in select Balenciaga stores worldwide and on balenciaga.com, marking a decisive step forward in the House’s vision for innovation-driven and sustainable luxury.