A new initiative highlights the textile recycling potential in Europe to reintegrate parts of the textile production chain back into the continent. The Telavalue research project, conducted by the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, views enhanced textile recycling as a significant opportunity for the entire continent.
The project notes that while recycling technology is advancing swiftly, regulatory shortcomings and the complexity of waste material compositions are impeding substantial progress. However, it emphasizes that there exists the potential for a billion-dollar industry with numerous facilities spread throughout Europe.
Research Professor Ali Harlin states, “In Europe alone, around 10 billion kilograms of textile waste are discarded annually. Textile fibre’s price per kilogram ranges between €2 ($2.33) and €3, so this field offers enormous business potential.” Currently, only 1% of global textiles are recycled into new textiles, with Harlin indicating that regulatory gaps and the intricate nature of textile materials are major hurdles.
He further explains, “The EU is a global leader in textile recycling regulation, but even here, progress has been slow. Proper regulation needs to be in place before we can expect significant advancements in textile recycling rates.” The EU is working on updating its Waste Framework Directive to incorporate the textile sector under Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), requiring textile firms to manage their recycling processes.
Harlin envisions that increased recycling efforts could help relocate parts of the textile production chain back to Europe. Collaboration is crucial since strong technological advancements are found in Northern and Western Europe, while manufacturing expertise predominantly resides in Eastern and Southern Europe.
The Finnish textile industry has been addressing sustainability and waste challenges through a decade-long project. Lead researcher Pirjo Heikkilä explains that if textiles cannot be repaired or reused, mechanical fibre recycling is preferred. For heavily worn or low-quality textiles, chemical recycling becomes a viable option, breaking down fibres at the polymer level.
This process not only creates new textiles but can also utilize discarded materials for nonwoven fabrics, wind turbine blades, and vehicle sound insulation. The rise of ultra-fast fashion, known for prioritizing low-cost and mixed materials, complicates profitable recycling efforts. In contrast, the workwear industry is faring better due to its service-oriented business model, which promotes durability and ease of recycling.
While not all complex textile materials can be restored into new textiles, Senior Scientist Eetta Saarimäki asserts that through thermo-mechanical recycling, these materials can still create composite products, granting them a second life. The ongoing efforts reflect the significant textile recycling potential in Europe, highlighting the industry’s commitment to sustainability and innovation.
