Oeko-Tex, the internationally recognised certification scheme for textile and leather sustainability, has announced a comprehensive restructuring of its governance framework. The changes come ahead of the EU Directive on Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition — commonly referred to as the EmpCo Directive (EU 2024/825) — which is set to take effect from 27 September 2026.
The reorganisation is designed to ensure that Oeko-Tex’s sustainability labels remain legally compliant as new national laws across EU member states are progressively introduced in alignment with the directive.
Why the EU EmpCo Directive Matters for Sustainability Labels
The EmpCo Directive is introducing considerably tighter requirements for environmental and sustainability claims made within the European Union. Under the new framework, such claims must be substantiated by certification schemes that are subject to verification by independent third parties. This raises the bar for organisations like Oeko-Tex, whose labels are widely used by brands and retailers to communicate product sustainability credentials to consumers.
According to Oeko-Tex, the restructured governance will not only fulfil these immediate regulatory requirements but also position the organisation to respond to anticipated future regulatory developments.
What the Restructuring Involves
Central to the reorganisation is a clearly defined separation between standard-setting processes and conformity assessment activities. Oeko-Tex has stated that this distinction has been formally institutionalised to reinforce the operational independence of the certification body.
The transformation encompasses several concrete structural changes. Oeko-Tex GmbH is being converted into a public limited company (AG). A new Statute of Independence has been introduced, and an Independence Council has been established. An anonymous whistleblowing system has also been put in place to further strengthen accountability.
On the technical compliance side, the organisation has signed an accreditation agreement in line with international standards under ISO/IEC 17065, while ensuring that its certification bodies fulfil ISO/IEC 17025 requirements. Decision-making authority has additionally been restructured under a Board of Directors.
Oeko-Tex described these adjustments as “necessary” and confirmed they were developed carefully with input from several independent legal opinions.
Business Continuity for Customers and Partners
Despite the scale of the governance overhaul, Oeko-Tex has confirmed that regular services — including product testing, auditing, and certification — will continue without interruption for its customers and partners. The organisation’s global network of accredited certification bodies remains fully operational.
Standard-setting activities will continue through a multi-stakeholder approach and public consultation processes that involve external experts, preserving the collaborative nature of how Oeko-Tex standards are developed.
Companies currently using Oeko-Tex sustainability labels can continue to substantiate their product claims with legal certainty and credibility under the new governance regime, the organisation confirmed.
Oeko-Tex CEO Speaks on the Importance of Independent Verification
Oeko-Tex CEO Dr Alfred J. Beerli addressed the motivation behind the restructuring, stating: “Consumer protection begins with trust, and trust only arises when what is claimed is independently verified. With the new structure, we anchor this independence even more firmly and make it transparently verifiable for everyone. This gives our customers, and the people who see our labels in the shop, the certainty that they can rely on Oeko-Tex.”
The governance reform reflects the broader direction in which EU regulatory policy is moving — toward greater scrutiny of environmental claims and stronger independent verification as foundational requirements for textile certification and sustainability labelling across the bloc.
