The US textile industry is pushing for tougher trade action against imports linked to forced labour, urging the government to introduce additional tariffs on textile and apparel products sourced from China and certain Southeast Asian countries.
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing manufacturers across the American textile supply chain, has submitted recommendations to the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR) as part of its ongoing Section 301 investigations into labour practices within international supply chains.
According to the organization, the continued use of forced labour in textile and apparel manufacturing distorts global competition and places domestic producers at a significant economic disadvantage. NCTO believes stronger enforcement measures are necessary to safeguard US manufacturing while promoting fair trade practices.
In its submission, the organization stated: “Forced labour remains prevalent in global textile and apparel supply chains and unfairly disadvantages US textile manufacturers. The administration now has the opportunity to take meaningful actions in the investigations to revitalise the domestic textile industry and to defend it from unfair, predatory trade practices like forced labour.”
The association also cautioned that policy decisions made during the investigation will have lasting consequences for the sector. It emphasized that effective action could significantly expand domestic manufacturing capacity, while an inadequate response could eliminate jobs and inflict long-term damage on the industry. As noted in its comments, the right policy approach could “potentially double” industry capacity, whereas the wrong decision would cost jobs and cause “irreparable harm.”
Beyond requesting new tariffs, the NCTO stressed the importance of preserving duty-free market access for qualifying textile and apparel products traded under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) and the Central America-Dominican Republic Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR). The organization argued that maintaining these trade benefits is essential for strengthening regional supply chains and encouraging production within North America.
The group also proposed revisions to the textile enforcement mechanism currently being considered by the USTR under the Section 301 investigation. While supporting efforts to eliminate forced labour from supply chains, it argued that the existing framework requires targeted adjustments to avoid unintended consequences for US manufacturers.
Among its recommendations, the NCTO called for raw cotton to be excluded from the proposed mechanism, warning that including the commodity could encourage manufacturers to relocate production outside the United States. It further suggested exempting textile machinery and manufacturing inputs that are not readily available from domestic sources from any additional import duties. Such exemptions, the organization argued, would help preserve the competitiveness of US textile producers while supporting continued investment in domestic manufacturing.
The Section 301 duties on textile imports proposal comes as policymakers continue evaluating trade measures designed to address labour-related concerns in global sourcing networks. The outcome of these investigations could influence future sourcing strategies, import costs, and investment decisions throughout the textile and apparel sector.
The Section 301 duties on textile imports debate also follows recent collaboration between the NCTO, the American Apparel & Footwear Association, the United States Fashion Industry Association, and the US Industrial and Narrow Fabrics Institute. Together, the organizations have promoted an alternative incentive programme aimed at strengthening the entire textile and apparel value chain. According to the submission, the initiative would “reward the whole textile and apparel supply chain, including US cotton through a novel program developed by NCTO and brands and retailers to create over 56,000 jobs in the US.”
